These units are real
high quality headlights build after todays high standards, utilizing
the latest FF (free form) reflector design technologies.
These units are NOT just another set of aftermarked fog light
that has been thrown into a headlight application. They were solidly
designed for racing and has proven to last. Several LeMans track cars uses
them with good results. Also rally cars (Subaru) have been spotted using
them. Whats good enugh in professional racing is good enough for street use.
Below is some pictures of cars they have been used on:
Ford Focus (aftermarked)
Price per unit
From (Also see text below)
Susquehanna.com OR any European Hella dealer (lower price)
D2/Hella ballast for 24V
--- " ---
1BL 007 834-037
--- " ---
Matching high beam modules are also available.
Low beam is advertised or has been for sale in these
HID equipment:OEM D2S bulb, Ballast, relays, harness and plugs.
Options 2, 4 and 6 cannot be bought without HID equipment.
Options 2, 4 and 6 will have OEM quality HID. Retrofitting
HID into options 1, 3 or 5 is not legal and will never reach same quality.
If you do not already have HID equipment, (4) and (6) gives you
the best beam pattern for a little more money.
What is the most powerful low beam unit (option 1-6)?
(Sorted starting with the best)
Option (4) Untested - will probably give the most balanced pattern and with high brightness
- only street legal under ECE.
Option (6) Untested - only street legal under DOT.
Option (5) retrofitted with a Philips OEM D2S bulb that will work well
with some enhancements described below, it will create this
beam. Beam is wide without compromising
down the illumination, with soft transisions. The right flare is relatively
high but the illumination is a good compromise between increased right side
vision and acceptable glare levels. Price will end up on USD400-600, all depending
on how good you are to shop around. This choice is not street legal under ECE nor DOT.
Option (3) retrofitted with Philips OEM D2S bulb and enhancements as described below.
This unit is switchable between LHD and RHD by turning the projector unit 15 degrees,
which means that it is symmetrical - illumitation levels follow the same
pattern from the "kick" in the cutoff line towards each side.
Which in turn means that total output lacks a little because the overly illuminated
right flare has to be covered up.
Illumination in front of the car is higher than desired, but toleratable.
Illumination down the road and outside the horisontal 40 degree
opening angle is just average. Transistions are a little rough, but toleratable.
Glare levels are acceptably low.
This choice is not street legal under ECE nor DOT.
Option (5) which is pretty powerful as it is. It has a 65W bulb which
is 10W more than almost any other low beam halogen application. Only street legal under DOT.
Option (3) - only comes with a 55W halogen and is less powerful than (5). Only street legal under ECE.
High beam units
High beam modules have a modern FF reflector with no curved lens -
this is not a projector.
They have the same diameter in front, same mounting mechanism, and same
back plate as
low beam modules with same bulb. Outside finish is heat painted magnesium
with real glass in front. ECE versions can be ordered with a
5W city light bulb in the
bottom portion of reflector, which should always be lit up in case low beam bulbs
breaks or you are parked on the curb.
Pricing is similar to low beam modules.
There are 2 differnt Halogen versions (ECE and DOT) and 2 different
HID versions (ECE and DOT) out there. Halogen ECE has this beam pattern, at 20ft with a 55W halogen. Its a typical
ECE high beam and from eyes that are used to DOT high beam, it will look spotty
with a 30 degree opening angle, but herman likes them - great for high speed
All of them are totally symmetrical between right and left side, so they
will work well in both RHD and LHD applications.
HID high beam version is not really recommended for primary high beams because of warmup
time. As auxillary light it is a total different story. Because of the small size,
several units can be mounted side by side and give enough light for rally usage!
What is the difference between parts from Hella USA and Hella Germany?
Hella USA parts listed on http://www.hellausa.com with 7 digit P/N can be bought (read special ordered) from any local North American Hella dealer.
Hella germany (euro) parts listed on http://www.hella.de with 12 digit P/N are only available through European retailers and gray importers in North America. Puma in Ohio is one of them.
Most of Hellas parts are manufactured in Germany, regardless of its destination marked.
What is the difference between Hella 90mm Xenon low beams and other OEM HID projectors?
All Hella 90mm low beam units are very small - hight of the active reflector is only around 55 mm.
They can be compared to
1999-2002 Audi A4 Xenon Euro (made by Valeo) and 2001-2003 VW Golf Xenon Euro
(made by Bosch), both sizewise and output. Hella 90mm
does not fall behind in performance, not even as HID retrofitted halogen version.
(For more details on on OEM HID units - see
OEM HID DB)
The main difference here is the design approach. Hella 90mm Xenon is a mechanically more solid
and weatherwise a complete unit.
The A4 unit (as well as all other OEM projectors) is more frigile because it is removed from the protecting
headlight assembly that it came in from the factory. The entire reflector of the Hella 90mm is
made out of thick magnesium, the reflector of A4/Golf unit is thin plastic.
Hella 90mm cutoff shield is a little outside focus, which softens up the
cutoff line and reduces the blue color band right below cutoff line. Very
minor traces of yellow, orange and red are visible instead. Also the 90mm front glass lens has a
slight curve to it and reduces colours in the cutoff band
What is the difference between option (5) and (6) above?
The dual light source (H9/D2S) labeling on the front glass made several of us wondering a long time if Hella actually used the excact same optical parts, and
just replaced back plate so that it accepts the 2mm shorter D2S bulb. But a closer inspection
have showed that the optical surfaces of the projector are different. The variance
is not easily seen by a naked eye.
The H9 unit has a slight cutout of where a D2S wire should go through reflector, just
like OEM HID projectors have. The 90mm unit, in general, is designed for a high output light source (e.g., the H9 bulb).
The beam pattern is reportedly DOT-compliant ("harmonized beam") with the
H9 bulb at 1870 lm (at 12.8V) - in terms of light output at the various test
points decreed by existing US regulations.
Actual bulb lumen output on the highway at say, 14.0V would be 136% of 1870 lm, or 2543 lm.
A D2S capsule, with 3200 lm output, only produces 26% more lm than the H9,
at highway voltage, so optics would not be oversaturated, which can typically
happen when original light source is much weaker than an HID bulb.
What variations has been seen on option 5?
At release time, curved lens was clear. Later on, some models have been clear, others
have been ribbed, with a fresnel like pattern on it. Clear lenses has slightly more down the
road illumination and sharper cutoff line. The ribbed curved lens bleeds a little more
light above cutoff and gives slightly more even spread of light. The differences are not
big enough to spend time and money and go hunting for clear lenses.
What units can take overwattage bulbs?
Halogen low beams: Caution must be taken, mostly because of the front shell
that are made out of ABS plastic. H7 units might be able to take 70W bulbs,
if voltage levels are kept less than maybe 13volts. Considering that
option (5) can take 65W with the same front shell, this COULD be possible.
A small 12V computer fan can be inserted to cool down the rear of unit for
increased safety. None of this tested - so you are totally on your own!.
Halogen high beams: Since housing is magnesium and glass, it will not melt by upgrading
to any higher wattage bulb. Just make shure connector terminals are of high quality and mounting
bracket can take the added heat.
What are the measurements on H7 E-code low beam:
P/N 1BL 008 193 00
Front glass lens: 87 mm diameter
biggest witdh: 115 mm
bigest hight: 113mm
Depth: 140 mm + depth of HID socket, which is 25mm. Totals
to 165mm or 6.5 inches.
Curved lens diameter: 50mm (Inside the unit)
What are the measurements on H7 E-code high beam:
P/N 1KO 008 191 00 - (included 5W intergrated City light bulb)
Front glass lens: 87 mm diameter
biggest witdh: 118 mm
biggest hight (w/ city lights): 122mm + length of city light AMP
connector (not needed)
biggest hight (w/o city lights): 118mm
Depth (from front glass to rear end of rubber boot): 151mm
What about sizes on the other versions?
They have the same dimensions, the H7 low beam projector
is the deepest halogen projector.
Specifically, depth for option 4 (see above) is 163mm from front glass to rear end of high voltage plug.
Is there any need for extra lens or weather cover?
No. It is a complete optical unit. With the front shell screwed on,
it is water proof. All units comes with black rubber boot to cover bulb.
Note that HID retrofits does not go inside rubber boots.
Both the rubber boot and unit has tiny air vents to reduce inside
If are a perfectionist and want to reduce the amount of dirt that can
come through the small 2mm diameter ventilation holes, extend them
with a small rubber fuel hose. The longer distance the less dirt
What is up and what is down on the unit?
When you get the unit in your hands the text on the glass
should point down.
Do I have to use the mounting tabs?
No. You can simply cut them off and glue on your own.
When do I need springs?
Only if you use a rotational spacer (~washer). This is
needed unless you are able to aim the cutoff line straight in other ways.
Unless the cutoff line is 100% streigth, you will annoy yourself to death!
No. The front shell is only mounted with screws and can
easily be removed. The intension of the front shell is weather proofing,
UV reducer, and cosmetic appearance. So if the headlight box you are
mounting it in is weather proof, there is no need for front shell.
Where can I get spare 4mm Torx screws?
The shield and curved lens are secured with these
screws. Herman looked through a couple of easily accessible
hardware stores in Europe, and found that standard 4mm screws with hex
heads are very easy to find, but they all had incorrect rise ratio.
Conclusion: Whatever you do, take extremily good care of of those
Where can I buy a H9 HID kit?
If you have not been able to find it, it is nothing
wrong with you or the search engine! Fact is that H9 is a new halogen
base standard in the automotive industry. In Jan 2003, there were no
cars that came with this bulb from OEM. There is no shame to use a P32d based
D2S bulb. It is actually better: Untouched by kit manufacturer and
can be bought from any luxury car dealer, in case you need a spare.
Can any of these units be used for left hand driving?
Yes, they can. For low beam, it is recommend to use option 3, which is
designed for all countries supporting ECE regulations. By turning rear
end (red in color) in relation to front shell (black in color) fifteen degrees,
the desired effect is achieved:
How do I fit an OEM D2S HID bulb into option 5?
This section will describe how to modify
original backplate. This means that you can never insert the
H9 bulb again. As an alternative, a backplate can relatively easy
be reproduced in aluminum.
When you remove the H9 bulb,
there will simply be a hole in the backplate. This hole needs to be
A new bigger diameter of 25mm is fine for the D2S bulb. Some of you might
have noticed that Osram D2S bulbs have a longitunal flange. Philips
D2S bulbs do not have this, so don't create retainer mechanism based on
Osram D2S bulb. If you have not seen the difference, do not start to
worry now, the 25mm hole will support all P32d based D2S bulbs.
Remove the backplate and store the rest of the projector unit away in a
zip lock bag in a different room. Cut out the 25mm hole using a Dremel "all purpose cutting" bit.
It will decrease the life of the bit when cutting in magnesium
compared to usage in plastic, so have a couple of spares handy.
Carefuly place D2S bulb into hole, so that it rests on the backplate.
Note how easily it slides in all directions. This can be overcome by
drilling 3 symmetrical holes for 6-32 x 1/2 inch (3mm diameter) bolts in the backplate.
When you mount the bolts in from reflector side, they should all be at
the edge of the bulb, around 120 degrees
apart. This way D2S bulb will not slide sideways. So far so good.
Now you will see that bulb still
can rotate and fall out back words. Here comes the remedy for that:
The bulb needs to be squeezed against backplate using
a bulb retainer. Thread it past the
onto the D2S bulb, past the 2 plastic tabs. A bulb retainer like this can easily be made
out of 2mm aluminum (same as suggested in option 3). Attach small nuts,
and tighten. They should be tighten so hard that bulb will not rotate while
you attach the huge high voltage connector. Glue the 3 bolt heads to backplate
with JBWeld (see tools and materials page) to make it easier bulb
replacements. Picture below shows bolts mounted the opposite way.
Picture also shows that bolts are placed away from the edge of bulb, which is
good if you want to experiment with bulb placement. It is not that good for
normal install. It is easy to overtighten bolts and bend bulb retainer. Unless
you select thicker than 2mm bulb retainer which in turn will increase weight.
There has been alot of discussion whether or not to mount bulb
should be centered in this fixture. The direction I am referring to here is below center.
Excactly how many millmeters below center to get the most optimized
results is currently unknown. As a rule of thumb, you can select 1mm.
Keep it within the range 0-2mm.
The H9 version has a weatherpoof bulb, so a big rubber grommet is not included.
Those rubber grommets are not available as spares from Hella. It might
be possible to use rubber grommets from older style H4 lamps. In example
sealed beams with H4 bulbs.
More details on custom weatherproofing is described under
Herman's custom headlight units on this faq.
How do I fit an H7 HID kit into option 3?
The H7 bulb is thin, so reflector hole diameter is only 16mm, compared to 25mm
used on OEM HID headlamps. An HID bulb will go in there,
but the risk of hurting the ceramic insulation on return wire while inserting bulb is high. Another very
imoprtant factor is that return wire needs 5mm spacing around it.
This means it will need a deep groove (6-7mm),
to made in the reflector. Failure to do so can result in
on return wire of bulb.
Remove the backplate before starting to cut. This will make it easier to cut.
Herman recommends stuffing a tennis sock retained by paint tape into reflector so that less amount of cutoffs come in contact with reflector and possibly scratching it. Also keep in mind to not touch the sock with the dremel cutting bit. 35000 RPM sock can be pretty exciting experience!
How do I fit a OEM D2S HID bulb into option 3?
Make the groove in the reflector as described above. Store away the
but keep the 3 retaining screws. It should then look like
this. Then get some aluminum
or magnesium in 4 and 2mm thickness. Drill out 2 rings using
hole saws or get help from a machine shop. For simplicity, the inner hole on both plates should be centered during drilling.
Result should look like this after fabrication.
If you make these rings at home, its hard to make this down to 0.5mm tolerances, which is required. To
make it simpler for yourself, wait with alignment of bulb until the end. In fact, the alignment here means
to insert D2S bulb, then drill out exact holes for screws that will hold the bulb retainer. The bulb have to sit
in the middle horisontally, and then vertically
moved down 1.5mm from center. The 3 screws will hinder the bulb from sliding sideways.
Then drill out the holes for screws in bulb retainer. All that remains now is to use the included rubber boot to
protect the D2S bulb connector against weather. Carefully cut out a 32mm hole. 2 weeks after install
and when evrything works, you can seal it up with a tiny bit of high temp silicone. In case bulb breaks,
silicone is relatively easy to remove mechanically.
Above: Philips D2S secured with bulb retainer and 3 6-32 x 1/2 inch (3 x 12mm) stainless steel screws to new backplate
Will the 5mm cutout for return wire reduce output?
No, tests have shown that even covering up the entire bottom half reflector has minimal to
This sounds complicated, what else can you suggest?
This may seem like alot of effort to get the bulb secured, but other solutions
will not be as safe. HID bulbs are dangerous if used incorrect. There is quite a lot of force needed to lock a connector to
the D2S bulb, and the risk that bulb goes out of focal point or even worse: breaks loose.
Here is few ways that is NOT recommended:
Use of a locking ring.
Simply cut out a ring from 1 - 2mm stainless steel or
aluminum that you place on top of the bulb. Drill holes in the rear of the housing,
and in the tab of the rings. The 2 cutouts on the inside of the ring are
for the D2S bulbs 2 tabs. If you use inside diameter 26mm instead of 25mm,
you might get away with just one cutout. By angling the ring, you should
be able to get it over the bulb. See drawing.
Again, I will not recommend this one. It does not allow final vertical/horisontal adjustment. And it is way too frigile.
Use of a ring from a key chain and bending it to fit into stock retainers, or retaining them
into new holes. Again a risky solution.
Glue the D2S with JB Weld or similar directly to Hella base plate. Not recommended. Very unpractical. Fumes from glue will most likely fog up reflector and possibly the glass on HID bulb.
What changes are needed to make the H7 Hella 90mm optically ready for HID?
Intensity levels right under the cutoff line around the center of the beam is the same.
This unit is designed to have a large right* road shoulder flare. This is fine as long as
a 1500lm H7 bulb is used as light source. But a D2S bulb with over double the intensity will
send way too much light onto right* shoulder side of the road. At an intersection, any vehicle,
even bus coming from the right* will exeperience major glaring. From the driver seat,
there is so much light up in the roadside trees and buildings that it becomes annoying.
The bandaid is to cover up the flare. The extra cover can simply be made out of
thin aluminum foil from a sanded pop can. Adehiesive is Black high temp
(600F) sensor safe silcone gasket maker. Aluminum can be left alone, but will get a thin layer
of oxidation wich will make cutoff line look bumpy, so Herman recommends painting it. Use hight temp paint
(see Tools and materials page). Cutoff edge must
be extremely straight - it will be projected down the road. Any irregularities
will be visible. Accuracy of 1/20 of a millimeter is neccesary. Which more or less means
that you sand after the trial and eror method.
Using the above shown shield,
this is how it looks like
using the E-code version with the stock 55W Halogen bulb, at a distance
of 20ft (6 meters). Please overlook the clothing hanger (in the middle left), the
tap (in the middle), and the black vertical air vent pipe.
How do I make the shield ready for HID for UK usage?
The following picture is a theoretical study, not tested in real life:
How can I separate the front shell?
The front shell consist of a clear real glass which is glued to
an ABS cylinder:
Unfortunately the glue that holds the front glass is not hot melt. What I did was to carefully cut the black plastic around the glass and use a blade and cut the gray silicone stuff. You still have to use a screw driver to slowly work your way around the glass to pry it off. Don't use too small a screwdriver since that will chip the glass quite easily. And be careful when you cut the black plastic. You have to be really patient to do the job. I think it took me about 60-90 minutes to do one...
Surrounded by my vaunted arsenal of light building materials, I went to work. Oh there were many tools alright! 7 different screwdrivers alone... A man can build a spaceship with that kind of support. You could say I was armed to the teeth. LOL.
What I thought was gonna be a challange wasn't one at all... The lenses came off in little over 30 minutes of work!! A little disappointed that it was a little too easy, I even started talking smack to the lights... Hahahahah... "That's all you got? Man, and here I expected more than that..." LOL...
Eric's method worked great. What is needed is to cut the housing, using a dremel cut-off disc, along its circumference about 2-3mm in to the bottom of the ledge where the lenses sit at. Once you do this, you simply pull the thin plastic strip that is formed. You will then use a thin screwdriver to further break down the adhesive and finally use a thin straight screwdriver to pry the leses off.
The lenses have your typical "hard outter shell" defense. It seems that they are impossible to take off. But once you are able to put the straight screwdriver underneath the lense, it is pretty much all over. The adhesive gives way in lighting speed after that.
After the lenses were removed I used a dremel sanding drum to clean off the ugly gray adheasive and make it nice and black all around.
Timewise, I used 5-10 min on each.
How hot does the modules get?
This picture shows temperatures across the low beam E-code unit at 24C ambient (room) temperature with a 55W bulb. An HID bulb has less wattage, but housing doesnt feel any cooler. There will always be losses, and they will certainly be 3 times as high, which probably explains the eqvivalent tempratures.
When mounted inside a headlight, temperatures will be higher. Add 10-15C for that. Also add another 15C, because of
possible higher ambient temperatures. This will corresspond to 40C, which is a really hot day.
This picture shows temperature readings for E-code high beam.
Can you show some examples of projects where Hella modules have been used?
Any front turn light from car will do. Just note that the closer it is mounted to the
low beam, the more output is needed. Hella has a small turnlight that fit the tightest
space. It is used in the "Hella triple round". Hella P/N for this turnlight is
2BA 008 221-001.